June 11, 2015 at 12:48 pm #804350
So I found this link online:
for a LED spotlight that puts out (allegedly) 900-1000 Lumens at 10W. I have two old (but perfectly functioning) 9Cell NiMh Light&Motion Batteries. What would prevent me from buying that light (or the 20w version) for under $10 (ok maybe $12CDN) and jury-rigging them together for the world’s cheapest front MTB light?
-Voltage should work off my current batteries (I am not an electrical engineer, but I think my old L&M HID was 13.5 Watts on high and 10 Watts on low… so…. should work, no??!!)
-Light is rated for outdoor use, so water/banging around should not be an issue (??)
-Light is large in current form factor – would have to figure out how to slim down (maybe I can fit it into an old HID light housing?)
-Heat dissipation – but these lights are designed to handle whatever heat they produce while static, so one assumes having them on a moving bike would help?
-totally ghetto, likely to electrocute myself, stupidest idea ever (??)
Alternatively, can I replace the HID-bulb in my current light with an LED?June 11, 2015 at 4:37 pm #804360
I’m no electrician, but I would think you’ll also need to confirm the voltage is compatible.
And that light is huge, 12cm x 13cm! You’ll need to put a wiper on it to clear off the bugs 🙂 I think you’re diving into a snake pit trying to move the internals to a diff housing.
I’d also be concerned about durability. It is made for outdoor use, but in a stationary position.
But, go for it… love these kinds of projects!June 12, 2015 at 8:07 am #804364
The project sounds like a lot of fun but personally I have gotten most of my lights from http://www.dx.com and for $30 you can’t go wrong.June 12, 2015 at 10:08 am #804368
Your biggest obstacle will probably be driving it. Many of the higher output COB LED arrays (which that appears to be) are designed to run from high voltage sources. There is probably some sort of driver in there that lets it run from the wide range 85-265VAC, but you’re likely going to need to step UP you battery voltage to get it to run.June 12, 2015 at 10:31 am #804370
it’s a cool project, but for me reliability would be the biggest issue even if you can make it work. I just don’t want to ever be caught in pitch dark on a night ride. The new Serfas lights I bought last winter are pretty light, super bright and mounting to both helmet and bars is a breeze. They are compact and durable. Some things are just not worth toying with unless it’s just a hobby.June 12, 2015 at 11:51 am #804374
Those are cheap. Maybe we can all pitch in and just start lining the trails with lights for two hours after dusk.
I’m most interested in wire free lights, personally. They’re a bit pricier, but these offer lots of lumens with no danglers. http://www.ultimatesportsengineering.com/exposure-lights/cycle-lights-2015/diablo-mk6June 12, 2015 at 11:56 am #804375
I have two of these and an extra battery. These at 750 are way brighter than my old 1000 which had wires.June 12, 2015 at 12:48 pm #804379
I have two of these and an extra battery. These at 750 are way brighter than my old 1000 which had wires.
Those look pretty perfect. I’ve got an older MagicShine on my head, and a 600Lumen wireless barmount by Leysene which is very dependable, but just not bright enough for a the helmet. This serfas might be in my future when my cheapo Magicshine finally goes.June 12, 2015 at 12:59 pm #804382
I find that I can do without the bar light in most places. Real technical areas around Hilton Falls and the Agreement Forest demand all the light you have though. They are a really nice light. In the snow, I find that I can run one light and not even at full setting. Pretty happy with them so far. We’ll see how long they last.
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